Filled with sensitivity and passion, Anthony Bisquerra’s approach has evolved along with himself. It has been shaped by his meetings. We look back with the chef of L’Alpaga at the experiences that have marked him and the lessons he has drawn from them.
During my early years working at a family-run hotel-restaurant in Vendays-Montalivet, Les Sources De Caudalie in Martillac, the Sofitel in Bordeaux-Lac and Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle, I was shaped by my mentor, Gilles Bernaud, the realisation that I needed to tell a story, meeting my partner, Anne-Sophie Vincent, and a deep respect for ingredients. My path has not been as linear as it may appear. Each time, I had to open my eyes, rethink what I was doing and make a new start... They were all lessons that still serve me today.
I’m always guided first and foremost by plants and vegetables; the meat and fish then follow. The times we live in call for common sense. Particularly the rural wisdom my grandparents passed down to me. They also call for comfort. It’s up to us to listen to them and reappraise the way we do things, the way we are. In the kitchens, this involves a coherent approach between Le Bistrot and La Table de L’Alpaga, with more efficient management of ingredients, while adopting a style that is familiar to our guests. For example, why not offer a slice of traditional custard tart and strawberry purée here, a two-star version of it there, and a whole tart to share in the chalets? The staff in the dining room and reception also have a part to play in supporting our approach and serving our guests better than ever before.